Stinging nettle - Urtica dioica

Stinging nettle (Urtica dioica)

A comprehensive guide to its botanical properties and cosmetic applications

Stinging nettle, scientifically known as Urtica dioica , is one of nature’s most nutritious botanicals, with important applications in both modern cosmetology and traditional wellness practices. Rich in silicon, sulfur, iron, zinc, chlorophyll, polyphenols and powerful anti-inflammatory compounds, it acts as a natural solution to address many beauty and wellness needs at the same time. Its remarkable phytochemical profile includes all the essential amino acids , which is why many herbalists call it “ nature’s multivitamin ”. At the same time, its mineral-rich composition — with calcium, potassium, iron, magnesium, phosphorus and zinc — forms the basis for its extensive cosmetic benefits.

In this article, we present the available scientific data on the properties as well as the traditional uses of another treasure of nature, so dear to us, manufacturers of natural cosmetics, and to all lovers of natural care, who are looking for effective alternatives to synthetic ingredients.

Historical significance and botanical origin

The nettle plant has occupied a special place in human history for millennia, serving purposes that go far beyond decorative or culinary uses. The heart-shaped leaves with the well-known " nettle hairs " that contain formic acid and other bioactive compounds are the source of its therapeutic potential.

Roman scholars recorded its use in various therapeutic contexts, while medieval herbalists such as Hildegard of Bingen recommended it for a variety of ailments and as a mild wound healer. In 10th-century Anglo-Saxon texts, stinging nettle appears among nine "sacred" plants with documented medicinal properties, underscoring its long-standing reputation for therapeutic efficacy. Throughout the Middle Ages in Europe, herbalists praised stinging nettle for boosting circulation, supporting detoxification processes, and helping to manage inflammatory conditions—uses that modern research increasingly seems to confirm.

Its geographical distribution reflects its remarkable adaptability and its close relationship with human settlements. In Europe, the presence of stinging nettle often indicates fertile soils and phosphorus- rich environments, acting as a reliable “indicator” of soil quality for farmers and gardeners. This ecological relationship has created deep cultural connections, particularly in Northern and Eastern Europe, where stinging nettle has a prominent place in traditional cuisine and folk medicine. Today, the intentional cultivation of stinging nettle for cosmetic and medicinal applications has increased significantly.

Phytochemical composition and scientific mechanisms

The effectiveness of nettle in cosmetic and therapeutic applications is primarily based on its excellent phytochemical composition. The plant tissue of the leaves contains chlorophyll, carotene, vitamins, minerals and flavonoids , which form the basis for understanding its diverse biological activities. Modern phytochemical analysis has identified a particularly rich set of bioactive compounds, such as quercetin, kaempferol, β-sitosterol and chlorogenic acid , which are associated with tissue repair, follicle activation and hormonal balance regulation.

At the molecular level, the components of nettle act through several mechanisms that explain its diverse applications. Iridoid glycosides , and especially acuvin , exhibit anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial properties, affecting cytokine pathways and addressing inflammation at its “source” at the cellular level. Chlorogenic acid , a phenolic compound with antioxidant activity, scavenges free radicals and protects cellular structures from oxidative damage. Quercetin and kaempferol (flavonoids) contribute to antihistamine, anti-edematous and vasoprotective effects that have been observed in studies, indicating a role in reducing inflammatory reactions, relevant to both skin and scalp health. The tannins present in nettle offer astringent and healing benefits, useful in topical applications for mild skin concerns and eczema, through mechanisms that enhance healing and the skin barrier. Finally, the mucilaginous components soothe irritated tissues and contribute to nettle's reputation as an herb that relieves dermatological irritations, creating a protective "film" that favors healing.

Hair care applications: evidence and benefits

The use of nettle in hair care is one of its most well-documented applications, with mechanisms of action that affect multiple levels: the hair follicle and the scalp ecosystem. Nettle provides essential minerals, such as silicon and sulfur , that support keratin production and follicle strength through nutritional and structural pathways. Research shows that nettle extract can help activate “dormant” follicles and support improved hair density, providing more direct evidence for the claims of traditional preparations.

Its mineral composition is particularly important:

• Silicon plays a structural role in the creation of hair, contributing to the protein "network" that provides strength and elasticity.
• Iron and zinc support hemoglobin synthesis and critical enzymatic processes for healthy development.
• Calcium and magnesium contribute to proper metabolic function within the follicles.

Hair loss is multifactorial, and stinging nettle addresses it in more ways than one at a time. It contains beta-sitosterol , a plant compound that has been linked to regulating DHT (dihydrotestosterone) levels — one of the key factors associated with thinning and androgenetic alopecia in both sexes. Additionally, its iron, zinc, and silicon profile supports stronger hair at a structural level, helping with conditions related to nutritional deficiencies. There is also evidence that it strengthens the dermal papilla cells at the base of the follicle, contributing to thicker, more resilient hair through direct cellular effects and improved nutritional support.

Scalp health is the foundation for healthy hair growth, and nettle’s multi-faceted properties help with conditions that impair hair quality and growth. Its antimicrobial properties can reduce microorganisms associated with dandruff and seborrheic conditions. At the same time, quercetin and polyphenols soothe irritation and promote a more balanced, healthy scalp environment through combined anti-inflammatory and protective action.

Skincare applications: properties and therapeutic benefits

The use of nettle in skin care covers a wide range of needs, with actions that affect multiple levels of the epidermis and dermis. It is traditionally considered a natural "detoxifying" agent, contributing to the removal of "impurities" associated with acne and dullness, through mechanisms that support systemic wellness pathways. There is evidence for its role in reducing inflammatory skin conditions, scientifically supporting some traditional uses as an aid for "troublesome" skin.

Its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial compounds help soothe redness and reduce breakouts, acting on both inflammatory mechanisms and the microbial balance of the skin's surface. The astringent action of tannins helps regulate oiliness and improve the appearance of pores, making it particularly useful for oily or acne-prone skin that seeks natural balance without excessive "drying". In conditions such as eczema, rosacea or contact dermatitis , the topical use of infusions or extracts can provide mild relief thanks to the combined anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and soothing action.

At the same time, nettle provides powerful antioxidant protection through its polyphenols, protecting cells from pollution, UV exposure, and oxidative stress — critical factors in modern life, where environmental stress accelerates aging.

Cosmetic compositions: oils, extractions, soaps and shampoos

The transformation of nettle from a plant raw material into a final cosmetic product involves different formulation strategies, each of which "draws out" and concentrates the beneficial ingredients in a different way, depending on the product category.

Oil extracts (macerates) are considered one of the most effective methods for utilizing active ingredients, as the carrier oil soaks dried plant material for a long period of time, allowing the phytochemicals to diffuse into the oily phase. Through maceration processes of 4 to 6 weeks , nettle leaves transfer active elements into oils such as coconut, sesame or jojoba , creating concentrated preparations that can be used directly on the scalp and hair as intensive treatments.

Aqueous infusions and decoctions capture the water-soluble components of nettle — minerals, polyphenols, and amino acids — and are particularly suitable for shampoos, conditioners, and lotions/rinses. Their preparation involves steeping fresh or dried plant in hot water for 10–15 minutes , creating a liquid extract rich in bioactive substances that can be used immediately or preserved. When such aqueous extracts are incorporated into shampoo and conditioner formulations, they “deliver” the minerals and therapeutic compounds during the cleansing and conditioning stage, so that the benefits accumulate with systematic use.

Nettle powder or standardized extract shampoo bars are a modern approach that brings benefits together in a convenient form, with a longer shelf life and reduced packaging waste. These formulas combine nettle with mild plant-based surfactants, providing effective cleansing while targeting the needs of the scalp and hair. When combined with complementary ingredients such as silk proteins (which enhance conditioning with an amino acid profile similar to keratin), the result covers multiple aspects of hair health: from cleansing and softness to more “therapeutic” support.

The incorporation of nettle into soaps follows traditional saponification techniques: either dried material is added directly to the base, or used as an infusion before the process. Nettle soaps offer gentle cleansing for the face and body, while its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties make them suitable for sensitive, acne-prone or irritated skin. The solid form ensures good stability and a longer shelf life when stored properly in a cool, dry environment, allowing for a prolonged experience of the botanical benefits.

Conclusion

Nettle is a valuable botanical ingredient for natural beauty care, offering extensive benefits for skin and hair, which are based on both centuries of traditional use and modern scientific evidence. Its multifaceted phytochemical composition, rich mineral base and powerful anti-inflammatory compounds make it ideal for cosmetic formulations targeting a variety of skin and scalp needs. From ancient oil-soaking methods to modern shampoos and soaps, nettle continues to offer proven value to those seeking natural, effective alternatives to synthetic ingredients.

Discover Mellifora's collection of herbal shampoos and soaps